Mexico’s Hidden Agave Treasures: Bacanora & Raicilla
When people think of Mexican spirits, tequila and mezcal usually take the spotlight. But hidden in the mountains and villages of Mexico are two lesser known gems; Bacanora and Raicilla. Both are born from agave, both carry deep cultural roots, and both offer flavors as wild and unique as the lands they come from.
Bacanora: The Spirit of Sonora
Origin and Region:
Bacanora is produced exclusively in the state of Sonora, Mexico.
The spirit has a Denomination of Origin (DO), meaning it can only be made in Sonora, similar to how Champagne can only come from the Champagne region of France.
Agave Variety:
Bacanora is made from the Agave Pacifica species, which is native to the region.
Production Process:
Harvesting: The agave plants, locally known as "piñas" after the leaves are removed, are harvested after they reach maturity, which takes around 7-10 years.
Cooking: The piñas are traditionally cooked in underground pits lined with hot rocks. This method imparts a distinctive smoky flavor to the final product.
Crushing: After cooking, the piñas are crushed to extract the fermentable sugars. This can be done using a traditional stone wheel (tahona) or more modern mechanical mills.
Fermentation: The extracted juice and fibers are placed in open-air vats to ferment, often using natural wild yeasts that contribute to the unique flavor profile.
Distillation: The fermented mash is distilled twice in copper stills to achieve the desired purity and alcohol content.
Aging: Bacanora is typically consumed unaged (blanco), but some producers age it in oak barrels to create reposado (aged for at least two months) and añejo (aged for at least one year) versions.
Flavor Profile:
Bacanora has a robust and complex flavor, often described as earthy, smoky, and slightly herbal, with a sweet, smooth finish.
Cultural Significance:
Bacanora has a storied history and was illegal in Mexico for nearly 77 years (from 1915 to 1992) due to prohibition laws. Despite this, production continued clandestinely, and the spirit maintained its cultural importance.
Raicilla: Mexico’s Wild Child
Origin and Region:
Raicilla is produced in the western Mexican states of Jalisco and Nayarit.
It does not have a Denomination of Origin, allowing for more flexibility in production methods and agave varieties.
Agave Variety:
Raicilla can be made from various wild and cultivated agave species, such as Maximiliana and Lechuguilla, depending on the region.
Production Process:
Harvesting: The agave plants are harvested by jimadores when they reach maturity, typically after 8-15 years.
Cooking: Depending on the region and producer, the piñas can be cooked in above-ground ovens or underground pits, both methods contributing to different flavor profiles.
Crushing: The cooked agave is traditionally crushed using a stone wheel (tahona) or mechanical mills to extract the juice.
Fermentation: The agave juice and fibers are fermented in open vats, often utilizing wild yeasts, which add to the complexity of the flavor.
Distillation: The fermented mash is distilled in either copper or clay pot stills. The type of still used can significantly influence the final taste.
Aging: Raicilla is typically consumed unaged (blanco), but there are also aged versions (reposado and añejo) available.
Flavor Profile:
Raicilla tends to have a more varied flavor profile due to the diversity of agave species used and production methods. Common notes include fruity, floral, herbal, and sometimes smoky flavors, depending on the specific type of agave and the cooking method.
Cultural Significance:
Raicilla is often referred to as "Mexican moonshine" due to its artisanal and often small-batch production. It has a rich tradition and is celebrated for its diversity and the skill of the individual producers.
Bacanora and Raicilla are more than just drinks, they are living traditions. They remind us that Mexico’s agave culture is far richer and more diverse than most people know. Each bottle tells the story of the land, the people, and the patience it takes to turn an agave plant grown for up to 15 years into something unforgettable.
So next time you raise a glass, look beyond tequila and mezcal. Try Bacanora or Raicilla, and taste the hidden treasures of Mexico.
