The Rise of Irish Whiskey

As the famous Irish poet W.B. Yeats might say, the drink in that glass is changing, and it's changing a lot.

In the past, some whiskey experts didn't take Irish whiskey very seriously. They often described it as light, smooth, and easy to drink, but not very exciting. There was some truth to this, but things are changing rapidly in the world of Irish whiskey. Today, Irish whiskey offers a wide range of styles, and in the coming years, we can expect even more exciting developments.

The Classic Irish Whiskey

You're probably familiar with the classic style of Irish blended whiskey. This type of whiskey is usually made by mixing grain whiskey with unpeated, triple-distilled malt or pot still whiskey. It's often aged in ex-bourbon barrels, giving it a soft, vanilla flavor with a hint of spice. This easy-drinking style has been a favorite for many, whether enjoyed at home or in a lively pub. But how did this style come to be?

A Brief History of Irish Whiskey

In the 19th century, Irish pot still whiskey was the world's most popular spirit. However, several disasters hit the industry, and by the late 1970s, only one company, Irish Distillers Limited (IDL), was left. They operated from just two distilleries: Midleton and Bushmills. Bushmills continued making malt whiskey, which became the base for its blends, while the newer Midleton distillery produced a variety of pot still whiskeys, much of which went into blends like Jameson, Tullamore Dew, and Powers.

These blends are known for being triple-distilled, which makes the whiskey light and fruity. They're also aged mostly in ex-bourbon barrels, adding soft vanilla and gentle spice flavors. This style became very popular in the United States, the largest whiskey market in the world. As a result, the more traditional single malt and single pot still Irish whiskeys became something only experts really knew about. But that's changing now.

A New Wave of Innovation

Things began to change in the late 1980s when John Teeling converted a biofuel plant in Cooley, County Louth, into a whiskey distillery. Cooley mostly produced blends but also experimented with different styles of malt whiskey. Teeling's approach was different from the usual Irish method; he double-distilled his malt whiskey, which gave it a richer flavor. He also brought back peated single malt Irish whiskey with his new brand, Connemara.

Teeling also experimented with different cask finishes, using barrels that had previously held sherry, port, or Madeira to add new flavors to the whiskey. This creativity helped Cooley produce a wide range of whiskeys despite being a relatively small distillery.

In 1988, Pernod Ricard bought Irish Distillers Limited and had a vision for where the Irish whiskey industry could go. The global success of Jameson is largely due to this commitment. But the real story of innovation was happening behind the scenes at Midleton distillery, where the Irish pot still whiskey style was being revived.

The Revival of Irish Pot Still Whiskey

Pot still Irish whiskey, made from a mix of malted and unmalted barley with other grains, has a unique fruity aroma, creamy texture, and spicy finish. This was the spirit that had been so popular in the 19th century but almost disappeared in the 20th century. For much of the last fifty years, Midleton was the only distillery making this style.

Most of Midleton's pot still whiskey went into blends like Jameson, but single pot still whiskeys like Redbreast and Green Spot kept the tradition alive. Irish Distillers Limited's decision to preserve and revive these brands, even when it wasn't clear if there was a market for them, has been key to the resurgence of the pot still style. This revival has played a big role in the broader renaissance of Irish whiskey.

The Modern Irish Whiskey Scene

Today, Irish whiskey is one of the most exciting categories in the global spirits industry. Big companies like Pernod Ricard, Diageo and others have made significant investments in new distilleries in Ireland. But it's the smaller, independent distilleries that are really pushing the boundaries.

In the 1990s, only Midleton, Bushmills, and Cooley were making Irish whiskey. Now, over 30 distilleries are operating, with many more in the planning stages. Each of these new distilleries is developing its own unique style. For example, West Cork Distillers are using bog oak and even seaweed to re-char their casks, producing some very intriguing results. Meanwhile, Dingle Distillery's annual Single Pot Still releases are fetching high prices at auction.

John Teeling, who started the Cooley distillery, sold it to Beam-Suntory but kept plenty of mature stock. This allowed his sons, Jack and Stephen, to start Teeling Whiskey and build a new distillery in Dublin. Teeling Single Malt expressions have won many awards, and the distillery continues to innovate with its cask program.

Challenges and Controversies

Not everything in the Irish whiskey world is smooth sailing. Some distilleries have discovered that traditional pot still whiskey recipes wouldn't meet today's legal definition of "Pot Still Irish Whiskey." Instead of being discouraged, smaller distilleries like Killowen, Blackwater, Echlinville, and Boann have recreated these historical recipes, often using old-fashioned techniques like malting oats and peat-fired malting. These efforts are creating some extraordinary spirits that will mature in the coming years.

A Bright Future

The Irish whiskey industry is growing rapidly, and many producers are experimenting with different cask finishes and aging techniques. Some, like Glendalough, have used rare Japanese Mizunara oak to finish their whiskey, while others are exploring the possibilities of aging whiskey in barrels made from different types of wood.

Midleton's new 'micro-distillery,' Method & Madness, is dedicated to innovation, using unusual woods like chestnut and cherry to age their whiskey. Independent blenders like JJ Corry and W.D. O’ Connell are also experimenting with a wide range of casks to create unique flavors.

One of the most interesting new developments is Waterford Distillery, founded by Mark Reynier of Bruichladdich fame. Waterford is focused on the idea of "terroir" in whiskey, producing annual releases using barley from individual Irish farms to highlight the unique character of each batch.

The Irish whiskey industry is in the midst of a revival, blending tradition with innovation to create exciting new flavors and styles. Whether it's experimenting with different cask finishes, reviving old recipes, or focusing on the unique characteristics of individual farms, Irish whiskey is evolving in fascinating ways. For whiskey lovers, this is a journey worth following. Let's toast to the future of Irish whiskey.

Sláinte!